| Within the framework of the Netherlands Centre for Coastal Research (NCK) research is carried out on the behaviour of long waves in the nearshore and in harbours. One of the projects was to investigate the infragravity wave climate on a realistic bathymetry using measured windwave input in order to validate the model results against Delilah data taken at a beach near Duck (NC), USA. The results show that the numerical model computes accurate time-varying infragravity wave motions as well as accurate mean wave and current conditions. Financed by Ministry of Transport, Public Works and Water Management / Education, Culture and Science |